Among the dead

“The Mexican is familiar with death, jokes about it, caresses it, sleeps with it, and celebrates it.  It is one of his favorite playthings and his most steadfast love.”
Octavio Paz, Mexican poet

The day of the dead  is celebrated in many Latin American countries,but nowhere to the extent it is in Mexico. All across the country, almost without exception, people decorate graves and put up colorful ofrendas (altars) in their homes placing photos of their loved ones along with gifts such as sugar skulls, tequila and cigars. We believe that the souls of the deceased return during the night to enjoy this feast with their loved ones. Mexicans may even sing and laugh, and some even sleep in the cemetery next to portable stoves with burning incense for heating up the “deliciosos tamales” – that I miss so much.

Another tradition is writing calaveras in order to satirize some aspect of a person. These are some kind of fake “obituaries”, written in verse, which you dedicate to your family or friends as if they had died.

Now, growing up I never really celebrated the day of the dead since my family was kind of atheist, but we did eat the delicious pan de muertos and sometimes we even strolled around the many small towns surrounding Mexico City just to see the amazing ofrendas in the town squares. My favorite was one in a place called the Anahuacalli, which was Diego Rivera’s house and every year they would display all of the day of the dead decorations this artist made.

So, at the request of a curious Colombian girl I work with, and in order to embrace the true Mexican lifestyle and traditions, we decided to create our first ofrenda in Paris. It was built in memory of Mexican Painter Frida Kahlo.

I also wrote some calaveras for two of my fellow workers. So here it is, the first annual “Calavera & Muertos fest” in Paris!

Ofrenda (or altar)

Ofrenda (or altar)

In memory of Mexican Painter Frida Kahlo

Calavera

Calavera to Valentina

Calavera to Bibata

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tales of Mexico City

Palacio de Bellas Artes, Mexico City

Mexico City is surprisingly awesome: from important museum collections, to exciting art galleries and performance centers, to memorable restaurants, shopping and nightlife. Thanks Alexis Swerdloff for this article.

THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday – Sunday, November 5-7, 2010

Magnifico chaos: An insider’s guide to Mexico City

It wouldn’t be surprising if Mexico City’s bad press was being perpetuated by those who want to keep it to themselves. Because once you get over the high-altitude hangover, learn the city’s do’s and don’ts (never hail a cab) and overcome fears of drug-fueled violence (most of it is happening in border towns in the far north), you will discover that Mexico City is one of the most dynamic, mysterious and beautifully chaotic places on the planet.

The first thing to understand about this city is that it’s difficult to understand, mostly because it is ridiculously enormous. Sprawled over 573.4 square miles, the Distrito Federal’s metropolitan area houses nearly 20 million people, making it the third largest urban center in the world.

To orient yourself, start out in the Zocalo, the main square and heart of the city since the Aztecs first staked their claim to it in the early 14th century. Wander any of the cobblestoned streets throughout the Centro Historico, where you’ll find a ragtag sensory overload of booksellers, food vendors and knick-knack purveyors.

For those with more Champagne tastes, there’s Polanco, a tony neighborhood of Maserati and Bentley dealerships, Gucci and Chanel boutiques and guys with pink button-downs and popped collars. In recent years, though, a new kind of sophisticated Mexico City dweller has emerged. Following the earthquake of 1985, many of the city’s wealthiest fled the center for fortress-like compounds in outlying areas. But droves of cosmopolitan types have made their way back—namely to the Roma and Condesa neighborhoods—renovating the grand but neglected French-style mansions and Art Deco buildings, and spawning flourishing art, culinary and design scenes.

This weekend, locals ready for Día de los Muertos (Nov. 1-2), a joyful, family-oriented celebration to remember the lives of those who have passed—by eating plentifully, carousing and creating ofrendas (offerings of the dead’s favorite foods paired with marigolds). Papier-mâché skeletons and skulls rattle through markets and shops, city museums showcase creepy-lovely “altars” and an all-night fiesta takes place in the canal district of Xochimilco.

So once it’s time to head home, tell your friends what a dreadful time you had, and regale them with tales of Mexico City mishaps—then, soon after, head back for more.

—Alexis Swerdloff

Magnifico chaos, an insiders guide to Mexico City